1. Prepare Skin: Start with a freshly cleansed face and apply moisturiser to face and neck. I always then apply a make-up primer. It provides a smooth base for make-up and makes it last longer.
2. Base: Choose a foundation that is right for your skin type in texture, colour and finish. If you have relatively clear skin, some concealer or tinted moisturiser to cover minor blemishes or counteract any redness may be all you need, but if you have a more uneven skin tone then a foundation might be better. Choose a shade as close to your natural skin colour as possible. I like to apply foundation with my fingers as the warmth of the skin helps blend the product for a more natural finish. You can use a make-up sponge to blend round the jaw line and hair line where necessary to avoid obvious lines.
3. Concealer: Apply concealer to areas that have not been successfully evened out by the foundation i.e. blemishes, spots, and redness around the nose. Match your concealer for your face to your foundation and don’t apply to much as this can make the blemish more obvious. The skin under the eyes is slightly lighter than the rest of the face. I like to use a light reflecting concealer under the eyes to banish dark circles. Beware of using one that is too light though as it can look chalky and give a panda eye effect.
4. Cheeks: If you like to use a cream blush, apply this before applying powder, otherwise it will clump together. I also love using a highlighter under the brow bone and on top of the cheek bone. Blend well to give a radiant sheen.
5. Powder: A natural glow is nice, but a shiny face is not a good look! I like to use a dusting of translucent powder, applied with a big soft brush, to set the make-up so it does not melt off during the evening, and to take away unwanted shine especially on the T-zone.
6. Eyes: Dark colours work best for a smokey eye look – either browns, greys, navy or charcoal. Good blending will give the illusion that there is only one colour there, graduating from light to dark. In fact you will need at least 2 colours. Use a light shimmer applied from the inner corner of the eye blending outwards, a grey over the eye lid, followed by a charcoal along the upper lash line, in the socket line and in the outer corner of the eye lid. I use 3 brushes; one for applying the light colour, one for applying the darker colours and one for blending. For the charcoal colour, to create the smokey effect, apply only a small amount at a time on the areas mentioned above, then use your blending brush to soften the colour along the socket line, blending slightly upwards as well towards the brow bone (don’t go too high!), and also blend from the outer corner slightly inwards. It is easier to build up and intensify the colour gradually than it is to apply too much and try and tone it down. I also sweep a little of the grey eyeshadow under the bottom lashes, close to the lower lid, to give a stronger look.
7. Eyeliner: I use a long wear gel eye liner applied with a brush on the top lid. Try to stay as close to the roots of the lashes as possible so that there are no gaps. This will also give the illusion of thicker lashes. I used a kohl pencil eyeliner on the bottom eye lid. This can be applied either along the bottom lash line just under the lower lid and softened with a cotton bud or liner smudger as required, or worn inside the inner bottom lid. For a more dramatic look apply to both areas. I have used a black liner to go with this look but also try browns, greys, navy, gold or silver.
8. Eyelashes: For more luscious lashes use eyelash curlers before applying mascara. Get them as close to the root of the lashes as possible, without nipping yourself, so that there is no dent in the lashes. Hold for 10 seconds on each eye. Apply mascara to the top lashes first and wiggle the wand slightly as you take the brush from root to tip as this will coat more of each lash, making lashes look fuller. For more impact, apply 2-3 coats but allow to dry between each coat. Use an eyelash comb to separate lashes if necessary. Apply lightly to the bottom lashes. For party proof lashes, I like to use waterproof mascara. I have used a black mascara for this look but this can be too harsh for some people, so try brown/black, brown or navy instead. For an even more dramatic look, false eyelashes are great. Try either strip lashes, corner lashes or individual lashes, depending on the look you want to create.
9. Eyebrows: Eyebrows frame your face so make sure they are tidy but not over-plucked or too thin. If they are too fair compared to your hair colour, or have gaps or are uneven, use an eyebrow pencil or eyebrow powder to define them. Never go more than one shade darker than your natural colour.
10. Lips: For dark eyes, it is best to go for a natural looking colour, or nude colour for the lips. Strong lips and strong eyes will look far too overdone. Firstly, I defined the lips with a nude lip liner, then used a gloss with a slight shimmer for this look to keep lips looking plump and shiny.
11. Finally: Dust a little bronzer over the cheek bones, temples and nose (where the sun would naturally hit your face), and you are ready to party!